A leather-only brand that insists on manual production. Historically made into sword patterns, graters and called as shark leather in the long past, Ray leather is extraordinarily tough, arguably the strongest amongst natural leathers. It is also believed to be auspicious from its charming look and physical toughness. Being soft and tough at a same time while also having hard scales, it is considered to be very difficult to hande. In Yoppi, in order to reach the smoothness of a hand or a handkerchief,manual polishing is dedicatedly deployed. For every single product by Yppi, tasting,coloring, polishing, sewing and orfering of scales are all optimized with dedicated, flexible manual labour that adapts to each natural leather itself. Feel free to take a piece of Ray leather and see for yourself.
『Featured sewing technique “Yoppi Stitch”』
Sewing process of a ray’s leather is harsh, which has scales hard enough to bend the needle of an industrial sewing machine. In
such cases, common measures would be leaving numerous cuts on the leather (picture 2), piping (attaching another piece of leather to
hide the cut) and taking a zigzag sewing trajectory (picture 3) to avoid scales.
Lunarossa-Yoppi proudly insists on its complete manual manufacturing. (※ below)
If treated by ordinary workers used to sewing ox or other common leather, straight cuts would be penetrated on the ray leather(picture 4) .
As a result, scales would no longer be evenly arranged, and thus crack in numerous directions, making the sewing process noisy and unstable.
In Yoppi’s method, dedicated efforts are paid to predict the direction of cracks, aiming to set them straight. Stitch after stitch, threads’
tightness and naps are adjusted by manual sewing, while straightness is always kept in this method named “Yoppi stitch” (picture 1).
Furthermore, if cuts are laid upon the ray leather, its scales’ tips could be lifted up, causing troubles with dresses and even fall off in
the end. Yoppi also evades this problem with its Yoppi stitch technique, which simultaneously brings about its featured shape of surface,
supported by specifically chosen threads, all thanks to our designer Yoshiyuki Awajitani.
『The arms of Yoshiyuki Awajitani』
After years of Yoppi Stitch performance overcoming difficulty caused by the uneven hardness of Ray scales and effort-demanding
manual sewing process despite pre-laid cuts upon the leather, the arm of Yoshiyuki Awajitani has been blessed with unique muscles.
※The difference between machine and manual sewing
In machine sewing, the thread below is brought up to meet the thread above, thus the flaws on any could cause undesirable,
However, in manual sewing, two needles are crossed during sewing process (like plain sewing from both sides), which effectively
prevents continuous detachments from happening. This is also why manual sewing is still performed in situations where thread
damage is likely to happen, like harness or boots. Thus, this effort and technique-demanding manual sewing incarnates not only
old-fashioned elegance, but also material strength superiority.
『Specialized polishing technique for Ray leather』
The cut section of a Ray’s leather is like shattered ceramic (because scales’ hardness resembles that of human teeth or nails) being
quite dangerous for direct processing, which requires polishing.
Pipping could also be applied to hide a cut section (picture 3), but in case the pipped leather is more fragile than Ray leather, the
latter is often revealed eventually by friction. To polish that section is also very challenging.
The Ray leather chosen by Yppi well-qualified and of good flexibility. Soft leather serves like a couch for the hard scales that are
not fixed, thus simple polishing upon the surface won’t be sufficient to make it smooth.
In Yoppi’s polishing, hard scales and soft leather is made into an entirety, polished repeatedly with dedication and colored with
polish shiner (picture 5).
If bent, such fine-grained polishing produces gorgeous light effect of diffuse reflection. However, the tip of each grain reaches out
and could hand upon dresses, etc. (picture 6).
As countermeasure, each grain would be polished to be round-shaped. This is further double-checked manually one by one,
ensuring the best quality (picture 7).